Roger Dubuis: Avant-Garde Swiss Hyper Horology

Roger Dubuis is a bold force in Swiss watchmaking, redefining luxury with audacious designs and cutting-edge mechanics since its founding in 1995. Based in Geneva and part of the Richemont Group, this Manufacture produces limited-edition timepieces that embody “hyper horology,” blending haute horlogerie with extravagant aesthetics. Known for its skeletonized movements, flying tourbillons, and collaborations with motorsport giants like Lamborghini and Pirelli, Roger Dubuis crafts watches for those who live unapologetically. Let’s dive into what makes this brand a trailblazer in contemporary watchmaking.

🕰️ A Visionary Beginning

Roger Dubuis was founded by master watchmaker Roger Dubuis and designer Carlos Dias in Geneva, a hub of Swiss horology. Dubuis, who honed his craft at Longines in the 1950s and spent 14 years developing complications at Patek Philippe, launched his own atelier in 1980. Partnering with Dias, a former Franck Muller designer, they established the brand in 1995 under the name SOGEM (Société Genevoise des Montres). By 1999, it earned the title Manufacture Roger Dubuis, unveiling its first in-house movements, all bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal).

Acquired by Richemont in 2008 (60% initially, fully by 2016), the brand moved into a state-of-the-art facility in Meyrin, Geneva, in 2001, expanded in 2005 to house 500 employees and 120 micromechanical machines. Producing fewer than 5,000 watches annually, Roger Dubuis focuses on exclusivity, with every timepiece certified by the Geneva Seal, a feat unmatched by any other brand.

🔧 Movements: Engineering Extravagance

Roger Dubuis is a true Manufacture, producing over 90% of its components in-house, including balance springs since 2003. Its 33 proprietary calibers are renowned for bold skeletonization and high complications. Here’s a look at its movement highlights:

Signature Calibers: The RD820SQ, a skeletonized automatic in the Excalibur Monobalancier, offers a 60-hour power reserve. The RD103SQ, co-developed with Lamborghini, features double sprung balances with a differential for enhanced precision.
Tourbillons: The flying tourbillon, a Roger Dubuis hallmark, appears in models like the Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon (RD01SQ), with two tourbillons for superior accuracy. The 2025 Excalibur Grande Complication combines a tourbillon, minute repeater, and bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
High Complications: The Quatuor RD101, with four sprung balances and five differentials, counters gravity in all positions. The Excalibur Aventador S, with a multi-axis tourbillon, reflects motorsport-inspired engineering.
Finishing: Movements feature perlage, Côtes de Genève, and hand-engraved details, meeting the Geneva Seal’s stringent standards. Skeletonized layouts showcase mechanical artistry.
Certification: All watches carry the Poinçon de Genève and are often COSC-certified, ensuring precision and quality.

Crafted with hundreds of hand-finished components, Roger Dubuis movements are visible through sapphire casebacks, blending technical prowess with visual drama.

🎨 Design Philosophy and Collections

Roger Dubuis’s designs are unapologetically bold, featuring architectural shapes, skeletonized dials, and avant-garde materials. The brand’s mantra, “No Rules, Our Game,” drives its nonconformist aesthetic, appealing to those who embrace extravagance. Here are the key collections:

Excalibur: The flagship line, launched in 2005, epitomizes hyper horology with star-shaped bridges and tourbillons. The Excalibur Spider (45mm) features lightweight carbon and ceramic, while the 2025 Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar revisits the brand’s first watch with a modern twist. Limited editions, like the 88-piece Excalibur Dr. Woo, showcase tattoo-inspired dials.
Excalibur Spider: A motorsport-inspired subset, with racing aesthetics and lightweight materials. The Excalibur Spider Huracán, developed with Lamborghini, and the Spider Pirelli, with tire-inspired straps, highlight collaborations since 2017.
Velvet: Glamorous watches for women, blending high complications with jewelry. The Velvet Automatic (36mm) features diamond-set bezels and mother-of-pearl dials.
Knights of the Round Table: Artistic masterpieces with hand-sculpted miniature knights or zodiac figures on enamel or jade dials. The 2017 RDDBEX0511, limited to 28 pieces, uses black jade and pink gold.
Hyper Horology: Experimental pieces like the Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt Micromelt, using aeronautic-grade cobalt, or the Excalibur Spider Carbon, with a fully carbon movement.

Cases (36mm–47mm) use titanium, carbon, ceramic, pink gold, or white gold, often with DLC coatings. Dials feature skeletonization, enamel, or gemstone inlays, paired with interchangeable Quick Release straps in rubber, leather, or textile.

💎 Materials and Craftsmanship

Roger Dubuis pushes boundaries with innovative materials and meticulous craftsmanship:

High-Tech Materials: Carbon, ceramic, and cobalt chrome in Excalibur Spider models ensure lightweight durability. Titanium and DLC coatings enhance sporty aesthetics.
Precious Metals: Pink gold, white gold, and platinum in Excalibur and Velvet watches, often paired with diamonds.
Gemstones & Enamel: Knights of the Round Table dials use black jade or grand feu enamel, while Velvet models feature diamond pavé or malachite.
Sapphire Crystal: Anti-reflective and scratch-resistant, showcasing intricate dials and movements.
Straps: Interchangeable rubber, calfskin, or Alcantara, with Quick Release systems for versatility.

Every component undergoes hand-finishing, from chamfered bridges to polished screws, meeting Geneva Seal standards. The Meyrin Manufacture’s micromechanical workshops ensure precision, while artisans craft dials with techniques like miniature sculpture and enameling.

🌍 Roger Dubuis in 2025

Celebrating its 30th anniversary in 2025, Roger Dubuis remains a niche player, producing limited runs of 8–888 pieces per model. Its U.S. presence is strong through retailers like Burdeen’s Jewelry, Watches of Switzerland, and Chrono24. The 2025 Watches & Wonders releases, including the Excalibur Grande Complication and Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, highlight the brand’s technical ambition and motorsport ties.

Collaborations with Lamborghini Squadra Corse and Pirelli, ongoing since 2017, infuse racing DNA into models like the Excalibur Spider Huracán. Roger Dubuis’s bold marketing, emphasizing “hyper horology,” resonates with a younger, affluent audience, while its Geneva Seal certification ensures credibility among collectors.

💸 Pricing and Value

Roger Dubuis watches are a premium investment, reflecting their exclusivity and craftsmanship. Entry-level Excalibur models start at $9,200, with Velvet watches around $17,500. High-complication pieces, like the Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon, range from $79,000 to $325,000, while unique models, like the Excalibur Dr. Woo MT, reach $389,000. Pre-owned Hommage chronographs start at $7,900 on Chrono24, with early models (1995–2003) gaining collector interest.

Compared to Audemars Piguet or Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis offers cutting-edge design and complications at slightly lower price points, though its bold aesthetic may limit mass appeal. Limited production and certifications enhance long-term value.

🌟 Why Choose Roger Dubuis?

Roger Dubuis is for those who dare to stand out. Here’s why it shines:

Hyper Horology: Combines avant-garde design with high complications like double tourbillons and minute repeaters.
Geneva Seal: The only brand to certify every watch with the Poinçon de Genève, ensuring unmatched quality.
Exclusivity: Limited editions and low production (under 5,000 annually) make each piece a collector’s gem.
Motorsport Edge: Partnerships with Lamborghini and Pirelli bring racing-inspired innovation.

For Americans, Roger Dubuis is available through retailers like Rocca, Harrods, or Chrono24, with free shipping and 2–3-year warranties. Boutiques in New York and Miami offer bespoke services, including strap customization.

🔮 The Future of Roger Dubuis

As Roger Dubuis marks 30 years in 2025, it continues to push boundaries with disruptive materials like carbon and cobalt, as seen in the Excalibur Spider Carbon. Future releases may explore new complications and motorsport collaborations, while the brand’s focus on skeletonization and limited editions will maintain its cult status. With a growing presence on platforms like aBlogtoWatch, Roger Dubuis is set to redefine hyper horology for the next generation.

Roger Dubuis is more than a watch—it’s a statement of boldness and innovation. Whether you’re captivated by the architectural Excalibur, the glamorous Velvet, or the mythical Knights of the Round Table, there’s a Roger Dubuis that fuels your passion.

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